Rye for the Day: Coffee, Coast & a Pint by the River

A slow day in East Sussex’s most photogenic town.

A day in Rye should start with the sea. Camber Sands is five minutes down the road, and early morning is the time to catch it before the crowds arrive. Miles of sand, dunes and often a fair bit of wind — take a walk along the beach before heading back into town.

Into Rye

Perched above the surrounding marshes, Rye is a maze of cobbled streets, crooked houses, old inns and independent shops - and compact enough that there’s really no need for a plan.

Brunch first

Whitehouse is our go-to: Turkish eggs, excellent pastries and properly good coffee. The Halloumi Hash gets our vote.

Have a wander

Head up Mermaid Street, cut through the little lanes around the Citadel and stop at Sailors for slow fashion and homeware, Rae for ceramics and textiles, and Rye Chocolates for something to take home. Leave some time for the antique shops and bookshops along the way — half the fun here is finding somewhere you weren't looking for.

Time for a pint

The Ypres Castle Inn is tucked below the old castle walls, slightly removed from the busier centre of town, with a big garden looking out towards the marshes and a good selection of local beer.

Stay for dinner

The Globe Inn Marsh is the kind of place we'd happily settle into for the evening: coastal, cosy and slightly eccentric, with a seasonal menu and plenty of Sussex produce.

One more?

The Waterworks for a tiny micropub and local beer; The Winery for Walgate wines in an unexpectedly cool little space; or, if someone else is driving, make the short trip out to Tillingham for natural wine overlooking the vines.

Good to know

Rye isn't somewhere you need to race around. Come for the beach, stay for the food, wander without much of a plan and give yourself longer than you think you'll need.